It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. Of all tyrannies, a tyranny exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive. If it is, first pull the inside magazine tube out as if loading take a pencil or something about that size with a flat end, put it in the receiver in front of the bridge(behind the chamber, in front of the curved piece that's solid) and push the piece back it should rotate back & down and lock, and then the bolt should go in normally. Sometimes there's a piece of the feed mechanism, I think the carrier or cartridge stop, that can be in the 'up' position if it is the bolt can't go in. Normally, all you have to do now is hold the rifle at the grip with your left hand and pull the trigger back & hold, and the bolt should slip into place, when it stops release the trigger and it should now go all the way forward.
To cock it, grab the front half of the bolt body(glove may help), hold it and rotate the bolt handle up(or to the left, if you prefer) that should move things to the cocked position. If the pin is not sticking out, it's not cocked. Look at the hood at the back of the bolt there's a hole in it, and a pin that's the back end of the striker. Ok, first thing is the bolt has to be cocked. This was the rifle I was going to use for the. Both are easily fixable/the sear takes a little more work/. The other thing that affects this is one of the screws on the left side of the receiver if it's not staked tightly and gets a little loose, that can cause problems. Also, made as they were, it's pretty rare for something to break or wear out as long as they're treated decently.Īll in all, if you run across one of these you should definately think about giving it a home you could do a lot worse.Īdditional notes: the main thing that does seem to happen to these is that the nose on the sear that acts as a bolt shop will get chipped or worn and will let the bolt slip out when you pull it back. The stock was a little beat up(surprise, surprise), so I scraped the old finish off, sanded lightly and gave it multiple coats of Parts availability is generally good Remington made a lot of this series, and many of the parts interchange. This one has the notch/bead sights, so about a year after I got it I mounted a scope(first time I'd drilled & tapped a receiver for a scope mount, and I sweated blood making sure it was square and that I didn't accidentally drill through into the chamber). They vary, of course, depending on individual factors, but with the right ammo most of them seem capable of this level or close to it(yes, it was shot from a solid bench with sandbags I don't think I could do that offhand with anything). A while back I decided to try some different ammo in mine, and with Federal Lightning(I've had such good results from the stuff it's become my default starting ammo for testing) it shot groups of 3/8" at 50 yards(I had a very good day), and would do it consistently. When I say capable of fine accuracy, I mean it. And I've been very damn glad I bought it.
Like a lot of old rifles it had a problem, but it only cost about $15(shipping and all) for the parts, and it's worked well ever since. I found this one some years back, and bought it mostly because it is the same model as Dad's. Sights ranged from notch rear and bead front to match-type adjustable. I've had a chance to shoot several, and they all had good triggers some were heavier than others, but all broke cleanly, an important thing for accuracy. They're full-size rifles(which made shooting my Dad's difficult when I was small), all steel and wood. Some of the repeaters had box magazines, the others tube like the 512, also known as the Sportsmaster:
They are all bolt-actions, and range from a single-shot small game and plinking rifle to a full-blown match rifle, and some models had smoothbore variations for shot cartridges. In my personal opinion the 510-series rifles were some of the best. 22 rifles, from single-shots to semi-autos. Over the years Remington has made a lot of different.